Mt. Fable

May 29, 2005 | (II, 5.4) | |
participants: brad cooke / carlyle norman / mike warren /

After some running around, we finally left Exshaw at about 0930, heading up Exshaw Creek on the promised "reasonable trail" (which it is). A brief stop for approach-trail magic cigarettes, a little looking around at creek-crossings and some foot-bandaging had us near the slabs of the south ridge in just under 4 hours.

Convincing ourselves of the right slab took a little looking about and some decending (it's basically the first one down [east] from the ridge which looks plausible and has a vertical rubble- filled break in the middle when you get up to it).

We climbed this for some ways over very cool water-grooves until the angle steepened and the slab pinched down a bit. The water grooves were really neat and quite deep (2-3 inches in places) and provided great hand-holds. We then started pitched climbing (although the difficulties weren't great) on a 70m rope (we had two followers simul-climbing ~5m apart).

A little exposure kept things interesting for two pitches and then we cut left into a gully a little ways after an original-looking pin station we skipped (although pins recommended for belays). One might be able, in hindsight, to keep on the slab for one more pitch before cutting left, but no promises from me ;)

After this, it was straight up the guidebook-mentioned obvious gully with another pitch starting perhaps 100m up the gully. We made another pitch after this, not realising we'd climbed the right-leaning crack already but this looked avoidable by going further right. Then ~100m of ridge-traverse landed us at the summit about 8:30 after starting.

The day was glorious the entire time, albiet slightly hazy at this point. Decent views into the surrounding valleys and of the peaks south into the Kananaskis.

We followed an obvious-appearing decent trail right from the summit which petered out and was followed by some traversing and talus down-climbing to get onto the scramble trail and the scree decent back to into the drainage.

After getting back on the trail, Carlyle expressed her surprise from the morning at us "forcing" her to run to keep up. Still, an 11:30 round-trip points to the necessity of a fast approach :)

All-in-all a pretty fun day out. Nothing to especially recommended this climb over others, but also nothing to deter one.

Private mail only; don't publish anywhere.